Piedmont or Piemonte, both meaning at the foot of the mountains; an apt description for this region that stretches across valleys encircled by the French, Italian and Swiss Alps. This crown of snow-peaked mountains surrounds the city of Torino giving it an aura of regal beauty. Such is the beginning of our Piemonte adventure, in its elegant capital city, residence of the last King of Italy through 1865. The geographical proximity to France made Piemonte vulnerable to French cultural influence and political dominance throughout the centuries. With the eventual return in power by the House of Savoy in 1814, with King Vittorio Emanuele I at its head, Piemonte regained its Italian identity. French influence however, remains to this day as evident to some extent in the local cuisine and the Piemontese dialect, many words of which retain their French origin.

From the very first day, with options for independent visits to the famed Museo Egizio, second in the world to Cairo, or the Museo Nazionale del Cinema (National Cinema Museum) housed in a famous Torino landmark, the Mole Antonelliana, or just strolling through the streets looking for the latest fashions, one gets a sense of understated elegance, a trademark of this city. Commercial but with a touch of class, faithful to revered social customs like a mid-afternoon “bicerin”, a rich mix of melted chocolate, coffee and milk, the most famous version being “n’ po’d tut” that in the Piemontese dialect means a little of everything. Similarly valued, is the early evening “aperitivo” as served in the historical and beautiful sidewalk cafes that flank the elegant piazzas, something that we will have the opportunity to indulge in. “Pasticcerie”, pastry shops like you have never seen before, displaying an array of fresh pastries, chocolate creations resembling works of art, and the very decadent marron glaces. “Gelaterie” offering a multitude of flavors most notable of which gianduiotti chocolate and zabajone. Shopping for the best of Italian fashions along the elegant Via Roma and the many side streets of the “centro” most notable of which, beautifully crafted leather goods and other accessories by Borbonese, a true blue-blood of the Torinese fashion world and best of all its exclusivity due to its non-availability in the US. All this within easy walking distance of our hotel in Torino, the Grand Hotel Sitea.

The remainder of our stay in Torino will find us strolling along to Piazza Castello, the heart of the city, from which we will gain access to the most important landmarks. Palazzo Reale, the residence of the last King of Italy, Palazzo Madama, the Queen Mother’s residence, the Teatro Regio where operas and other cultural events take place, and the beautiful churches of San Lorenzo, Santa Cristina and San Carlo. Also on our route is Il Duomo, the Cathedral that houses the Holy Shroud, one of the most sacred and controversial religious relics. Just across the street are the Porte Palatine, remnants of the gateway to the city dating back to the Roman era, guarded by a bronze statue of Caesar.

The city tour would not be complete without an opportunity to see it from the vantage point of Superga. We will ride on the original cog-wheel train dating back to 1934 following along a path carved out in a bygone era, climbing high on the hills surrounding Torino, revealing beautiful, unforgettable vistas of the city. After a 20 minute climb, we will reach the summit and the Basilica, a landmark conceived by the famous Italian architect Juvarra in 1731. In a subterranean mausoleum it houses the tombs of the Savoia Royal Family in surroundings of gilded stucco, displaying magnificent, monumental sculptures by the local artists of the XI and XVII centuries.

For an elegant and succulent introduction to the local cuisine and the prized Piemonte wines, our lunches and dinners in Torino will be served at some of the best and traditional restaurants in the city such as Al Garamond, Le Tre Galline, Neuv Caval’Brons, Baratti and Milano or Caffe`Torino.

In the evenings, there will be opportunities for a “passeggiata” through the very lively centro or the “Quadrilatero” a slightly bohemian neighborhood, filled with coffee houses, restaurants, interesting and eclectic stores reflecting the new “multiculturalism” evident throughout the city; even the church of Sant’Agostino, located in the midst of it all and where my parents were married and I was baptized, keeps its doors open until midnight, providing a moment of solitude and reflection to anyone that might need it.

Following this introduction to Piemonte, we will be ready to appreciate the Langhe, the source of all the wonderful foods and wines which are prized the world over and are a source of pride for the whole region and nation. The tone for the next four days will be set by Relais San Maurizio-Hotel del Monastero, very beautiful and elegant, yet well integrated in the natural breathtaking beauty of rolling hills and vineyards. Once a monastery, this resort hotel combines luxury with tradition, a perfect choice to relax and unwind with the help of its state of the art spa facilities, featuring among other, treatments that can only be found in this setting: wine therapy! (Honest!)

Our introduction to the wines of the Langhe will begin with a whole day dedicated to acquiring knowledge and appreciation for the Piemonte wines and the wonderful foods that complement them. This will be achieved by taking part in a “full immersion” course under the tutelage of an eminent sommelier that will include a comprehensive lecture on the characteristics of the soil, details and properties of the main grape varieties, wine tasting methodology, proper serving techniques, food pairing and proper terminology. Our full immersion day will include a fabulous lunch at the Michelin-one star restaurant Antine` in Barbaresco. We will witness how the principles covered in the morning lecture, are beautifully applied in a display of total harmony between food and wine. The balance of the day will afford us the opportunity to put our newfound expertise to good use during visits to top producers in Barbaresco and Barolo.

Our main event during this trip takes place in Bra, the epicenter of the Slow Food movement, where the famous festival “Da Cortile a Cortile” will take place. The town will open its ancient inner courtyards where the cultural and oeno-gastronomic celebrations will be held. We will follow an established path leading us on a discovery tour of over 100 historic courtyards where we will appreciate art exhibits, folk and popular music ensembles, allegoric parades, and ancient crafts. The heart of the event takes place in nine of these courtyards scattered along the historic center. Each courtyard serving a particular course starting with the “aperitivo” and ending with the “dolce”. Conspicuously present at each station are the great wines from the Langhe region that complement each course. The centerpiece will be the “Cortile del Gusto” (Courtyard of Flavors) where over 50 exhibitors offer all participants a taste of the typical, succulent “piemontese” delicacies: fresh pastas, Bra sausage, cheeses, cold cuts, breads and sweets all of which are available for purchase. This is a virtual “tour de force”, one that is not likely to be repeated anywhere else in the world with such gusto!

Our Piemonte experience will be enhanced as we continue to pay homage to its foods by taking a half day cooking course at the internationally acclaimed, International Culinary Institute for Foreigners (ICIF). This is where top chefs the world over come to learn Italian traditional cooking as taught by master chefs. This professional school housed in the beautiful Castello di Costigliole and surrounded by vineyards, opens its door to us, making available its impeccable facilities and expertise. Individual work stations equipped with monitors aimed at the instructor, will allow for hands on participation by each participant, never missing a single step.

Another day in the life in Piemonte will encompass a visit the “Casa del Trifulau”. Trifulau in the Piemontese dialect means truffle hunter and that is indeed what we will do! With the aid of veteran dog Diana and the still in training Birba, we will take part in one of the most mysterious and revered activity of the area: hunt for the prized white truffle! We will start with an introduction by the trifulau and his most valuable assistants, the dogs! We will be given a short explanation of the local traditions, the lore and the environment that gives birth to the prized tuber. As recently featured in a New York Times article, we will accompany Giorgio Romagnolo along a path carved by his father and many other trifulau before him. We will be privy to the most exquisite alliance between dog and master culminating in the triumphant discovery of the prized truffle! To celebrate this discovery, we will join the trifulau and his family for light lunch of traditional dishes enhanced by the incomparable flavor of the truffle and accompanied by ever-present luscious wines! The afternoon will provide us with one more opportunity to sample Piemonte wines as we stop for a tasting at a top producer.

Our discovery of the Langhe will proceed with a visit to La Morra, an enchanting medieval town located high on an imposing promontory, flanked on one side by the Po Valley crowned by the Alps and the Monviso and on the other side the rolling hills of Langhe, where the legendary grapes are cultivated. This is guaranteed to be an awe inspiring, breathtaking view! Further down the valley we will come across the Abbazia dell' Annunziata (Abbey of the Annunciation) whose 16th. Century cellars houses the Museo Ratti. We will be guided through this museum which is totally devoted to oenology. Following the visit we will sample the acclaimed wines produced by the Azienda Renato Ratti.

Also not to be missed is Serralunga, a characteristic medieval town, which grew in concentric circles around its castle. We will be taken on a guided tour of the castle and its towers, from which we can glimpse a beautiful view of the surrounding hills and the vineyards. We will visit the park, the wine cellars and the exterior of Fontanafredda which dates back to the 1800's. Of interest is the hunting lodge that was the scene of the trysts between King Vittorio Emanuele II and Bela Rosin who became his lifetime mistress. A wine tasting of Fontanafredda award winning wines will be offered as part of delicious lunch at their beautiful in-house restaurant, Villa Contessa Rosa.

Barolo, the town, the castle and the Marchesi di Barolo estate will complete our Piemontese indoctrination. We will begin with the properties of Barolo a guided tour of the Castle, which also houses an ethnographic museum where on display is an array of wine-related implements. This castle was one of the residences of the last Machesa Falletti, Giulia Falletti Colbert, who in the 1800s began the cultivation of the Barolo vineyards from which the wines took their name. A walk in town will be followed by a visit to the Marchesi di Barolo estates for a tasting of the noble Barolo wine, “the king of wines and the wine of kings”.

Our meals in the Langhe, will be served at some of the areas acclaimed restaurants, all boasting Michelin Guide, Gambero Rosso or Slow Food ranking such as Antine`in Cherasco, San Marco in Canelli, Trattoria della Posta in Cossano Belbo, Aldo di Castiglione in Asti and Castello di Mango in Mango. As a fitting end we will celebrate this wonderful adventure and its lasting memories with a gala dinner at internationally acclaimed Guido da Costigliole Restaurant, located on the premises of the Relais San Maurizio.

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