Campania is a story of wine history. Many of the grapes grown there today are descendents of the originial grapes brought to Italy from Greece in ancient times. The varieties Calerno, Falerno, Greco, and Faustiano were the grapes that produced wine for ancient Rome. I’ve read that Pliny wrote that good Falerno was the only wine that could be ignited over an open flame. Perhaps that is why the Romans watered down their wine.

Today the grapes from Campania that are the nucleus of wines from the region are white varieties like Greco, Fiano, Biancolella, Falanghina and reds like Piedirosso and the powerful and ageworthy Aglianco.

There are two climates in Campania. The Amalfi coast in late summer and early fall is similar to the climate of Sicily, while at the same time the inland areas of Campania are more like the Piedmonte. The wines produced in the respective areas reflect these different climatic conditions. The same grape, for example, Falanghina grown near the coast can be mellow and soft while grown inland it might be much tougher and astringent.

The only DOCG wine produced in Campania is Taurasi from the hills of Irpinia. It must be made from at least 85% Aglianico and the regular version must be aged for at least 3 years, one year of which must be in barrels. The riserva must be aged for 4 years, eighteen months of which are in barrels and it must have at least 12.5% alcohol. This wine is one of the top wines in Italy. The Mastroberadino family produces some of the best Taurasi in Campania.

For my tastes the best white produced in Campania is Greco di Tufo. Others prefer Fiano di Avellino. One of the finest producers of Greco di Tufo in Italy has their base in Campania. Feudi di San Gregorio does it best, The 2002 Greco di Tufo has aromas of ripe pear and spices that correspond to the flavors on the palate. The wine is crisp and nicely balanced, perfect for seafood from the Amalfi coast. Feudi di San Gregorio also produces a fine Fiano di Avellino among his range of world-class wines.


Courtesy of Ten Nice Wines, an Independent Wine Consumer Guide